Old Rag

Today's post comes with a multimedia bonus.  I encourage you to listen to the fingerpicking stylings of Virginia-based Daniel Bachman in the song, "Sun Over Old Rag" while you read.



This morning, I woke around 6am, brewed myself a to-go cup of coffee, packed a few snacks in my backpack and set out to hike Old Rag Mountain, one of the most popular and challenging hikes in Shenandoah National Park.  The rain had cleared, but left a hanging early morning fog as the sun rose over the valley, giving everything a naturally Instagram-ed appearance.

I drove through winding backcountry roads and arrived at the trailhead a little before 8am, with about a dozen other cars in the parking lot ahead of me.

After a full day of driving yesterday, it felt good to move my legs, and I hiked along at a good clip.  I don't know if it's the New Yorker in me that can't slow down, or a competitive streak that makes me want to beat everyone to the top, or if it's simply that I like a vigorous hike that gets my legs working and my heart pounding, but I tend to be pretty zippy.  I passed several hikers on the initial 2 miles, a steady climb that gently switchbacks upward.

The next section of the trail forced me to slow down, however, and proved to be a real test of strength.  For about a mile, the trail becomes less of a hike and more of a rock scramble up large boulders, through caves and narrow passageways.  I had read that this part of the trail required "significant upper body strength", and despite feeling not-so-significant in that area, I knew I could push myself to do it.

Here's a blaze on the trail that directs you to jump 8 feet down into a rock crevice.  Uh, ok.

Ahead of me on the rock scramble were about 15 high schoolers from the Shenandoah Cross Country team.  At one point near a high rocky ledge, I heard one of the kids say, "Coach, this is really hard!"  Their coach replied, "I know, it's gonna get you in great shape for track season."  The kid replied, "Well, I mean, I got the physical stuff, but mentally this is tough."  And the coach said, "Exactly, Denzel, that's what's gonna get you through this year."

Team Shenandoah at the top

After a brief rest at the summit, taking in the panorama of the rolling Shenandoahs, I parted from the crowds and quietly made my way down the mountain, first down a switchback trail and then along an old fire road.

While I stopped to watch a deer nibbling just off the trail, two guys from Richmond caught up to me and joined me for the last two miles of our nine mile loop.  They were cheerful and friendly, good company, and gave me recommendations on where to eat and what to do in the area.

Around 12:30, I arrived back at the parking lot with a good amount of hiker stink, a slightly blistered right heel, and a healthy appetite.  I made my way to the nearby town of Sperryville, where I heard that a joint called Rudy's Pizza makes a pie in homage to the hike I'd just completed.  It was called the Old Rag, and was topped with mozzarella, prosciutto, sun-dried tomatoes and basil.  I enjoyed it with a local IPA brewed in Charlottesville, VA, and the whole meal was heaven for a weary hiker.  In New York, this is the kind of place that would be fetishized by foodies and require at least an hour wait.  To walk right in and enjoy this pie within 10 minutes was absolute bliss.

Back at the treehouse, I'm too sun-soaked and worn out to venture out again for the evening, so I'll take my copy of Pilgrim at Tinker Creek down to the pond and read on the dock, hit the sauna a bit later, maybe practice my fiddle on this here porch swing.